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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.